Graflex.org

mrcvideo · Joined: 23 Jan 2014 Posts: 2

I'm having issues getting my graflex optar 135mm to sync with my strobes. I have a bipost to female PC cable connected to a male PC to pocket wizard 1/8th jack cable to my pocket wizards. Tested both cables and they are working fine. seems to me that there might be a problem with the bipost connections on the lens. Is there anyway I can test the posts/fix them? Or does this constitute buying a new lens? Any help would be greatly appreciated. [/img]

45PSS · Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 7:45 pm Post subject:

Which shutter do you have, the full sync Graphex or the Graphex X?
The full sync Graphex will have a selector next to the Bi post connector. That selector should be set to F-X.
To test connect a strobe directly to the shutter via a Bi post to whatever the strobe requires cable then operate the shutter, the strobe should fire.

The Bi post pins should be silver in color, if black clean them with metal polish.
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The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

mrcvideo · Joined: 23 Jan 2014 Posts: 2

it's the full sync lens with the fx setting. I have it set to that and the biposts have been cleaned and are nice and silver. Still no luck

Henry · Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 9:52 pm Post subject:

Problem may lie with the internal contacts behind the bi-posts. Unfortunately, reaching them requires partial tear-down of the shutter. IIRC, there are two flat spring brass internal contacts back in there that must complete the circuit in order to fire the flash---but it's been a while since I opened mine up. Surely there is someone on the board (Dan? Charles?) who can advise you much better than I can.

45PSS · Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 11:18 pm Post subject:

If you are handy with fixing things this service manual, http://www.southbristolviews.com/pics/Graphic/manual-pdf/GraphexShutterService.pdf , will tell you what you need to know. To see a diagram of the internal contacts go to manual page 18, pdf page 20,
items 1, 2, and 3. Item 1 is a #0 or #00 x 1/16 long screw. Items 2 and 3 are thin copper and easily bent. Your shutter is a #2.
_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

tom thomas · Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 5:57 pm Post subject:

To get to the internal contacts you will have to remove front and rear lens. The best tool I've found to remove them without damage is to visit your favorite ACE hardward with lens, go to the back where they have the nuts, bolts, washers, etc displayed and look for the black hard rubber bottle stoppers. They typically have a nice display of them in many sizes. Choose sizes that extend a bit over the diameter of the front and rear lens. Do make sure that they wont touch the glass lens itself to avoid putting rub marks on the lens surface.

Press and turn CCW and your lenses will screw right out in their mounts, exposing the shutter and internals.

Hope this helps a bit. Dont' be tempted to use vise grips or large pliers. It's a horrible way for a lens to die.
Tom
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Henry · Posted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 2:16 am Post subject:

Strictly speaking, IIRC, you don't need to remove the rear lens element to access the synch contacts, which are in the front of the shutter, but it's a good idea anyway as it will prevent possible damage.