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RichS · Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2003 3:28 am Post subject:

And speaking of 'dumb questions' (never mind),
I have been searching for another drum to process film. I now have a Western 8x10 drum that works great on a Unicolor motor base.
Problem is, I can't find a Western or Unicolor drum anywhere? I ordered a new drum that looked identical to the Western. Needless to say, it didn't look that way when I got it and it didn't have the necessary ribs inside the tube. So the question:

Does anyone still make a print drum similar to the Western or Unicolor with internal ribs anymore? Uhh, that's besides Jobo which is ridiculously priced... Surely someone must make new drums as I found so many posts on the net of people using them.

Thanks...

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Nick · Joined: 16 Oct 2002 Posts: 494

There are so many used drums around you should be able to get one that way. Weren't the drums mainly used for colour? Plenty of nicer ways to handle colour paper today.

If you don't want used Adorama sells some kind of drum. I don't know what it's like.

But if you've got a bit of time why not make your own. All it takes is some of that black drain pipe and some caps.

Read this and see if it sounds okay:
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&selm=BERGSTRO.94Aug10233719%40analysis.src.honeywell.com&rnum=1

RichS · Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2003 1:16 pm Post subject:

Nick · Joined: 16 Oct 2002 Posts: 494

The way I understand it the ridges only really help with removing the anti-halation backing. You can always fix in a tray afterwards if this is a problem. By this point the film might even be daylight safe if you do most of the fixing in the drum. If you need ridges can't you just glue something into place? The View Camera store still shows the BTZS tubes. The problem is the set might cost you more then a used Jobo expert drum.

RichS · Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2003 3:34 pm Post subject:

The ridges not only help remove the anti-halation coating, they also help keep the film in place. Something for the edge of the film to rest against instead of moving about in the tube. Although I haven't done more than one neg at a time yet, the ridges would come in real handy for that. I usually fix half in the tube and half in a tray. Mostly because my fixer is not so new and needs a bit more time... And I get very impatient to see what the neg looks like

The BTZS tubes are very different from what I understand. And very expensive... I'll stick with a print drum.

Yes, I thought of glueing someting inside the tube. Especially since I now have a brand new ridgless one to play with. It's not worth the cost in shipping to send it back... I just have to find something suitable to make the ridges out of, then a glue that holds to what is probably PVC. I have the official PVC glue, but it's surprising how poorly that stuff actually sticks. It will probably have to wait till I can arrange a trip to a good hardware store or hobby shop.

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"Ya just can't have too many GVIIs"

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RichS · Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2003 7:25 pm Post subject:

One more question...

My phone calls have gotten me nowhere. Seems these places either don't get the drums any more or they don't take them...

Midwest was the most helpful (there's a surprise

) and suggested a new Jobo. Not the expensive models, but the inexpensive print drums such as the 2830. I've looked at the Jobo site and a lot of other places. There's a simple question not answered anywhere.

Does the basic Jobo 2830 drum work like any other standard print drum. Meaning, you pour the chemicals in the top, rotate, then pour the chemicals out for the next bath. Or does it need a Jobo processor or somethiing else? And for that matter, if the chemicals simply pour in & out, do they come out of the bottom or top? It's supposed to be a daylight developing drum, but no mention is made anywhere of how the chemicals get in & out...
Thanks again, if anyone knows...

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"Ya just can't have too many GVIIs"

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Nick · Joined: 16 Oct 2002 Posts: 494

The 2830 just needs to turn on a level base. It'll fit a motorbase if you have it. Jobo sells a manual base to use with the drums but it costs more then a used motor. Assuming you get the cheaper drum with the normal lid all you do is pop the red rubber top and pour out the chemicals. Pour the new chemicals in and put the top back on. It's sort of like a patterson tank. The rubber top is only there to hold the chemicals in.

But you're back at only one sheet a time. I thought you wanted to do multiple sheets?

The BTZS drums are supposed to be similar to the drums you make yourself.

RichS · Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2003 1:48 pm Post subject:

Okay, so it is light-tight and almost works like a regular drum. That's good.
And it would be a single 8x10 sheet, although it's advertised as holding two (don't know how). It can hold more than one 4x5, and it's extendible for more than one 8x10 according to their web site info.
I would be happy finding another drum for a single 8x10 as I only have one now. Two would at least allow me to unload a complete film holder and be ready to do both sheets at the same time without having to completely dry the drum. Water drops can hide very well...

The BTZS tubes are not a great design and very expensive, and easily duplicated from the little I have looked at them. As far as I know, they are not light-tight as far as pouring chemicals in and out. But I never looked that close because of the cost (same reason I don't know about the Jobos).

Thanks...

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"Ya just can't have too many GVIIs"

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Nick · Joined: 16 Oct 2002 Posts: 494

It's two 8x10 prints. Not much chance of the two prints scratching each other.

Some place I've got some a link with info from a Jobo rep on using the print drum for film. I'll find the spot it's hidden a post it.

Nick · Joined: 16 Oct 2002 Posts: 494

http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&threadm=19981122223012.26382.00001921%40ng01.aol.com&rnum=20&prev=/groups%3Fq%3Dauthor:khowen%2540aol.com%2Bprint%2Btank%2Bfilm%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26start%3D10%26sa%3DN

I've got this link. Check out the info from Ken Owen.

Thought I had more-(

45PSS · Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2003 7:33 pm Post subject:

[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2005-12-26 18:53 ]

RichS · Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2003 2:20 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the links. That explains the light traps. Although Jobo says the drums are identical and _smooth_. Or do I need more coffee?
I can understand the warning about scratches. I don't even understand why my drum doesn't scratch the film. But I haven't been all that critical yet. Then again, why ruin the fun?

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"Ya just can't have too many GVIIs"

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clnfrd · Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2003 11:56 pm Post subject:

I know I'm dense at times, but this is a serious question...not meant to be smart-alecky: Why in the world would a person go to so much trouble to develop one or two sheets of 8X10 film? What's wrong with developing them in a tray in the dark? I see nothing so terrible about shuffling and agitating a few sheets of film in a tray for 7-1/2-minutes... into the stop bath...and into the fixer...unless you're allergic to the chemistry. And if that stuff can kill you, I'd have been dead 45 years ago. Just a thought. Fred.

45PSS · Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2003 2:23 am Post subject:

[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2005-12-26 18:54 ]

RichS · Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2003 2:39 am Post subject:

No problem Fred, a good question!

There's no problem with tray developing as long as you have a big enough dark to do it. My dark area is enclosed within a small changing tent. Although the tray would fit inside, it would be only one at a time and pretty messy if the stuff sloshed out

Seriously, I don't have a darkroom at the moment. "One of these days" I'll get it set back up... Until then it's daylight developing. Tank for 4x5 and drum for 8x10.

And it's pretty convenient really. Except for the loading part (in the tent), and one sheet at a time, everything else is super easy. With the Western drum, I could even drain the tube while I pour in the next chemical, then just drop it on the motor base and let the timer count minutes.

Of course if I had 25 negs to do, I'd be pretty unhappy about the speed of the process. But so far 8x10 has been very low volume. The 4x5 tank wil hold up to 12 sheets I think, at least 6. And I have two tanks. The 8x10 is a bigger problem (pun intended). I figure out that problem when the volume goes up, I hope...

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"Ya just can't have too many GVIIs"

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