Graflex.org

hellerharris · Joined: 27 Jun 2002 Posts: 46 Location: Los Angeles

Hi =

I only recently bought my first Graphic, a Century, which I love. It has the entry-level Graftar 103 w/ the instant shutter. I just flipped the lensboard to accommodate a cable release, and then set it up in flash handle with a slot for the cable release.

After firing it a couple of times, the shutter began to stick, something it never did before I used the cable release. It fires, but doesn't return to the ready position. If I give it a jiggle (never a good sign) it returns, but sticks again the next time.

Is it possible that the post of the cable release damaged the shutter? Is this just coincidental? Is there anything I do to fix this short of taking the lens off and lubing the shutter?

I'd appreciate any help - I'm heartbroken to break this after only two rolls of film.

thanks

After
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RichS · Posted: Tue Jul 09, 2002 6:24 pm Post subject:

I'll take a shot at this since I had a slightly similar problem...
You don't specify whether the cable release is sticking or the shutter is sticking. I'm taking it for granted that it's the shutter, or you probably would have asked a different question...

I recently had a shutter that stuck in exactly the same way, but only at certain angles. Since you said you turned the lens baord 180 degrees, and therefore the shutter, maybe it just doesn't like being fired upside down?

First, try turning the shutter (or camera!) back to it's right-side-up position and see if it sticks. If not, that's the problem.

I fixed mine by lubricating the shutter. Works fine at all angles not. The process has been talked about many times in these topics. Basically, just unscrew the lens elements from the shutter. Then give it a soak in common lighter fluid (naptha) with a sprinkle of graphic powder mixed in with the fluid. Shake it around a bit to get the graphite inside the shutter. then take it out and let it dry completely. Screw the lens elements back in and maybe it will work. There have been some mentioning of plastic parts in some shutters that could be damaged from this, so asking that question might be a good idea also. I don't personally know? But I've cleaned and lubes all my shutters this way and they all came back up to speed and work fine...

Rich...

45PSS · Posted: Tue Jul 09, 2002 8:20 pm Post subject:

Unscrew the cable release and check shutter operation. Locks on cable releases can be partially engaged causing sufficent drag to prevent the cocking mechanism from moving freely. I have this happen a few times.
Charles

_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

alecj · Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 853 Location: Alabama

It may well have something to do with the cable release [CR] you're using. The camera originally came with a black cloth CR that had a screw-in lock on the plunger end. There was a plastic receptacle mounted on the back left top edge of the camera [looking from behind] into which that plunger/lock fit. That CR mated with the lens on the left side [again from the rear] coming down nearly vertical. It was a good arrangement, although the flash handle Graflex later made [by adapting the XL handle to fit the Century] was even better. It, too had a built-in CR.

hellerharris · Joined: 27 Jun 2002 Posts: 46 Location: Los Angeles

Thanks for your help.

Actually, it now works better with the cable release attached. Without, it fires then freezes. I can loosen it by attaching the cable release and firing it once.

Sounds like I have to take it apart and lubricate it. Where do you find that odd lens spanner?

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Henry · Posted: Wed Jul 10, 2002 1:13 am Post subject:

If your Graftar shutter works OK when you fire it with your finger on the lever, then the problem most likely lies with the internal release and/or the cable release itself.
Take a look at the end of your cable release, that is, the plunger rod (the little part that moves in and out). I had a sticky shutter as you describe, and found that the end of the plunger rod was not square and flat, but had rounded edges which would slip down alongside the internal release bar and jam it up. The solution was simple: take a file and work on the end of the plunger until it is flat and square. Now when it's pushed down it can't slip down and jam the release bar. Hope I'm making myself clear.

hellerharris · Joined: 27 Jun 2002 Posts: 46 Location: Los Angeles

The CR seems flat on the bottom. Unfortunately, it seems to have done something to the shutter. If I hire it by hand, it sticks and won't move unless I insert the CR. Firing that will loosen it enough to push it back by hand. Is it possible that the end of the CR is too long? Maybe that's forced the release into the wrong position. This extends a half-inch/15mm.

Thanks.
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45PSS · Posted: Wed Jul 10, 2002 2:19 am Post subject:

Use a soft strap wrench to remove the lens groups. A good example is craftsman 45531.

Thin nose needle nose pliers can sometimes be subsituted for a spanner. A more dangerous one is to use a small screwdriver appling pressure 90 degres to turn axis in direction of desired turn.

A loose cable release socket or rounded plunger end could have caused the release plunger to slip off the trip lever and bend it.

Springs and things go flying when shutters are operated with too much removed!

On page 2 of this section if you'd rather scroll http://graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?topic=372&forum=10&14

interesting read futher down on page 1 or http://graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?topic=329&forum=10&19

Charles

_________________
While a picture may be worth a thousand words, a quality photograph is worth a million.

[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2002-07-09 19:33 ]

hellerharris · Joined: 27 Jun 2002 Posts: 46 Location: Los Angeles

GULP!
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Les · Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 2682 Location: Detroit, MI

NO! NO! Never swallow flying springs!!!!

alecj · Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 853 Location: Alabama

Better still, send it to Fred Lustig who will put it back like it was when first sold. He's got the parts, knowhow, and is most reasonable.

That is a good lens which should serve you well if you'll take care of it.

hellerharris · Joined: 27 Jun 2002 Posts: 46 Location: Los Angeles

Any idea (roughly) what Fred charges for something like this? I've been doing this on the cheap (which keeps my wife happy) and just about any repair would rival what I paid for the whole camera with a lens and a rollfilm back.

I may - Gulp - take a shot at it by myself. If it still doesn't work, I'll send out a bag of parts.
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45PSS · Posted: Thu Jul 11, 2002 5:42 am Post subject:

90% of all shutter repairs are completed by removing the lens groups, top cover, and cleaning. Almost, if not all movements can be observed without removing the cam plate, just rotate it to different speed settings even though the scale is not there. Besides, if you did swallow a flying spring you would know where it went.

_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

alecj · Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 853 Location: Alabama

>Any idea (roughly) what Fred charges for something like this?

Call him and ask.

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hellerharris · Joined: 27 Jun 2002 Posts: 46 Location: Los Angeles

Thanks, Alecj. I sent the lens and shutter off to Fred Lustig. The plunger on the CR had made a mess of the shutter. Glad I didn't try to fix it myself.

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