Graflex.org

ardmoreit · Joined: 27 May 2017 Posts: 3 Location: Northeast Texas

Hello,

I'm new to Graflex and need help getting my electronic handle mount flash to work with my Graflex Optar 135mm f4.7 lens with Graphex shutter. The camera is a Pacemaker Crown Graphic that is a1955 or later version because it has the top mounted Graflex Rangefinder.

The Optar lens has both the bi post, and a solenoid on it. It has four flash settings on the lower right: black "M', red "M', F-X, and Off. I've purchased a Paramount brand female PC to Bi-post Graflex flash extension cord that I've connected to a PC male to PC male cord. Together I've attached both flash cords and secured the male PC to the electronic flash unit, and the Bi-post end of the flash cord to the Bi-post on the lens.

My original Graflex Pacemaker owner manual says to place the sync selector on F-X for using electronic flash which I've done. The manual says to use any shutter speed.

When I test the flash unit it only fires the flash about 1 to 4 times when first hooking it up and powering up the flash then it won't work at all until putting it away and trying it again another day. Of course, I'm testing it without film, but I can't figure out why the flash initially works and then quits working. I think the synchronization is working because when it does fire I can see through the ground glass that it syncs with the chosen shutter speed.

Might the problem be using a bi-post to female PC sync extension cord attached to a PC male to PC male cord instead of one, single flash cord made of PC male to bi-post?

Any suggestions or solutions?

45PSS · Posted: Mon May 29, 2017 6:35 pm Post subject:

Are the pins on the shutter bright or black? Clean them with metal polish if they are dark colored/black.
My Paramount BiPost to PC cord has a loose fitting PC connector, I often have to apply pressure to it and the cable connected to it to get the flash to fire.
The Graphex service manual is available here:
http://www.southbristolviews.com/pics/Graphic/manual-pdf/GraphexShutterService.pdf
The contacts inside the shutter may not be making good contact or the sync mechanism may not be functioning correctly.
The 135mm Optar is in a #2 shutter.
_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

ardmoreit · Joined: 27 May 2017 Posts: 3 Location: Northeast Texas

Hello,

First off, thanks very much for responding to my post. I genuinely appreciate it. I've downloaded the service manual so I can reference it as needed.

Before testing electronic flash I carefully cleaned the Bi-posts. They're currently bright & shiny, and not dark. Of course, without taking the lens apart I can't tell what the interior portion of the Bi-post setup looks like, but the exterior looked relatively clean when I bought it, but for added insurance I carefully cleaned the exposed Bi-posts as best I could.

If something is off or corroded inside the lens I'm wondering why the flash appears to work when I initially hook it up and use it, and then stops working. Then again, sometimes after first hooking it up it doesn't work at all, but if it does work it is always when first using it, and then it stops working.

The lens is exceptionally clean, all the speeds from T to 1/400 work as they should, and to the ear sound accurate. I didn't want to have to, but should I "bite the bullet" and pay for a CLA? Or, should I start by purchasing a male PC to Graflex Bi-post from Paramount?

45PSS · Posted: Mon May 29, 2017 9:07 pm Post subject:

ardmoreit · Joined: 27 May 2017 Posts: 3 Location: Northeast Texas

Your description makes sense.

I'll give that a try.

Thanks again for the advice.

Henry · Posted: Tue May 30, 2017 7:53 pm Post subject:

45PSS mentioned flushing with solvent. I have done this to all my Graphex shutters, using "Ronsonol" (lighter fluid, a/k/a naphtha). To save you time and trouble, may I suggest that you try the flush before you tear down the mechanism? This has been my usual procedure, and I've achieved good results in some cases, no results in others, but have never made matters worse! If you go this route, you must remove the front and rear lens elements first! They unscrew CCW; use a rubber jar lid gripper if necessary. Apply the fluid sparingly into the front lens opening at the location of the synchronizer; move the synch lever back and forth a few times, and also work the shutter through all speeds. Repeat as necessary. Allow the solvent to evaporate completely before replacing the lens elements. HTH.

45PSS · Posted: Tue May 30, 2017 10:20 pm Post subject:

NEVER USE LIGHTER FLUID OR FULL STRENGTH NAPHTHA IN A GRAPHEX SHUTTER. It will damage or destroy the rubber and plastic insulators in the full sync shutter causing more damage than good.

Suggesting using lighter fluid is an insult.
_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

Henry · Posted: Wed May 31, 2017 1:03 am Post subject:

My results differ. YRMV!

45PSS · Posted: Wed May 31, 2017 2:41 am Post subject:

You may have gotten lucky once but don't bet on being lucky every time.
Clean your lens with 0000 steel wool is a comparable tip.
Throw a lit match on the shutter after taking it out of the lighter fluid to dry it quickly.
_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

Henry · Posted: Wed May 31, 2017 1:56 pm Post subject:

Good advice. I'll use the 0000 steel wool soaked in Ronsonol next time!

Seriously, since you mentioned in your post above that you yourself use a solvent, could you give us the benefit of your experience and recommend the particular solvent that you use? That might be helpful to those of us whose understanding of these matters is deficient.