Graflex.org

charleseder1 · Joined: 05 Nov 2005 Posts: 3 Location: Southern California

Got a 2773 and some #11 bulbs. Got the sync cord connected to the bipost on the lens. Batteries are good, but no flash. I notice the bulbs don't really screw in tight. I'm I missing an insert or something? Also, How do I know if I need a syncronizer for the lens? Thanks new to this wonderful camera and flash.

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Thanks
Charlie

45PSS · Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2005 6:27 am Post subject:

Connect a VOM across the flash terminals of the lens and trip the shutter, vom should momentarly dip toward zero and then return to infinity. Don't have or know what a VOM is, put a 3 cell flashlight bulb in the flash in place of a flash bulb. Short or jumper the flash cord input contacts on the flash and the flashlight bulb should come on, when you get it to work then put the flash cord in and jumper the other end of the cord, if light comes on the the cord is good and the lens flash contacts need cleaning externally or internally (requires partial disassembly of the shutter).

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The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

charleseder1 · Joined: 05 Nov 2005 Posts: 3 Location: Southern California

Thanks for that info. I will try that out later on tonight and see what happens.

Henry · Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2005 8:18 pm Post subject:

What shutter? On the Graphex shutters, the synchronizer is rather obvious: looking at the front of the shutter/lens, to the left of the bi-post you'll see a projecting housing with black and red marks on it, such as "M-M-FX-OFF," and a movable selector tab. If everything is in order, you should get flash on any of the settings except "OFF." If you don't, there are a number of possibilities, but a prime suspect would be dirty contacts behind the bi-posts. These are accessed by removing the synchronizer cover (two small screws) and polishing the contact blades with a sliver of fine emery or 400-grit sandpaper. If they're really gunked up you could spritz them with electronic tuner cleaner, but be sure to remove the lens elements if you do this, and be *very* sparing with the solvent lest you dissolve the insulator stick-um, in which case the little insulator strips will fall off and you'll have some unwanted electrical activity in there: not good.

Anything more elaborate than a simple cleaning, as above, may require a level 1 tear-down of the shutter. If you're reasonably handy and comfortable working on small stuff, and have the proper tools, it would help to have the manual "Graflex Graphex Shutters (1,2,3)" available as item #90026 from http://www.photobooksonline.com/books/manual03 , which has diagrams and step-by-step descriptions of the procedures involved.

Otherwise, you could send the shutter out to Fred Lustig (use the Board's search feature for contact info.).

[ This Message was edited by: Henry on 2005-11-06 12:41 ]

Les · Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 2682 Location: Detroit, MI

It should also be in "Normal" mode. above the red fire button is a plastic screw head with a white dot on it. It should be near the N. A screwdriver, dime, or one side of the "household" end of a sync cord will work.

charleseder1 · Joined: 05 Nov 2005 Posts: 3 Location: Southern California

Thanks all! Cross your fingers.

CombatPhotog · Joined: 17 Feb 2006 Posts: 7 Location: Maryland

Just a little more help from a new guy. I had the same problem. I found that my batteries were not making contact with the bottom screw plate where you put the batteries in. I had to place a small section of copper wire into the bottom of the flash tube so the battery lead would make contact with the bottom of the battery. I guess it has something to do with these new fangled batteries we use today. Works find now though.