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jbbatok
Joined: 14 Aug 2004 Posts: 5 Location: pikes peak
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Posted: Sun Aug 22, 2004 6:15 am Post subject: |
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I am the new owner of a nice Century with several lenses and 2 rh10 backs.Most of my questions have been answered in other posts in these forums,but,when I remove the GG back and attach a film back there is a small amount of play(1-2mm),both up/down and sideways in the back,even with the bars slid as far as posable to the left.Am I doing something wrong.is there an adgustment to be made?This cannot be normal;thanks for any help you might offer,John. P.S. The GGback is not loose and both film backs are. |
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glennfromwy
Joined: 29 Nov 2001 Posts: 903 Location: S.W. Wyoming
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Posted: Sun Aug 22, 2004 8:18 pm Post subject: |
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Without seeing it, I can only speak in general terms. The rollholder should be snug against the back of the camera but it's not a press fit. you will be able to move it around a little if you try. All it has to do is be snug enough to block light from getting in around the edges. Are the slide screws tight enough? I'll check my camera and report back with my own findings to compare.
_________________ Glenn
"Wyoming - Where everybody is somebody else's weirdo" |
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glennfromwy
Joined: 29 Nov 2001 Posts: 903 Location: S.W. Wyoming
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Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2004 3:19 am Post subject: |
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OK, I have checked the 2X3 Graflok back that I recently received and here is what I can tell you: as I said in the previous post, there is a bit of room for the film holder to move around but it shouldclamp downn snug enough that it is not loose. You will be able to move it a bit if you feel the need but I don't know why you would want to. The two black tension springs atop the sliders must be in place and the screws tight. Don't force them! I don't know exactly which camera model my back came off of, but will assume it is identcal to yours, so, there a two fuzzy light trap strips, one on top, one on bottom that need to be in place. If they are very badly worn or missing, that could cause some looseness. They should stick up just above the surface. If they are missing, there wil be a shallow horizontal groove where they go. Replacements, if needed could be made from camera light seal foam of the appropriate thickness or any soft, easily crushable material. Remember, you are just trying to hold the holder in place and keep the dark in. It's not a pressure vessel.
_________________ Glenn
"Wyoming - Where everybody is somebody else's weirdo" |
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jbbatok
Joined: 14 Aug 2004 Posts: 5 Location: pikes peak
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Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2004 4:53 am Post subject: |
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Glenn, thanks for the tips,the screws holding the springs and clamp bars were a bit loose,about 1/4to 1/2 turn from snug,at least it doesnt move now when I tilt the camera.The light seal stuff is also worn pretty thin so I guess its off to the storage shed to look for the xtra light seal foam.I should have checked the screws,there were several loose on the infinity stops and I had to reset them all,now I better recheck everything. Thanks again,this is a great site! John |
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disemjg
Joined: 10 Jan 2002 Posts: 474 Location: Washington, DC
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Posted: Wed Aug 25, 2004 12:01 am Post subject: |
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If you have to replace those seals, do not use foam; use velvet tape from the local fabric store.
The foam would be OK with the roll film back, but should you or someone else subsequently use cut film holders the sliding of the holders sideways across the foam could be expected to tear the foam up. The velvet is the way to go, and is easy to work with, too. |
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glennfromwy
Joined: 29 Nov 2001 Posts: 903 Location: S.W. Wyoming
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Posted: Wed Aug 25, 2004 2:29 am Post subject: |
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Fabric store? Local? Hmmmm, sounds like one of them there oxymorons in this neck of the woods. Hell, it's 60 miles just to get groceries.
_________________ Glenn
"Wyoming - Where everybody is somebody else's weirdo" |
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jbbatok
Joined: 14 Aug 2004 Posts: 5 Location: pikes peak
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Posted: Wed Aug 25, 2004 6:06 am Post subject: |
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Thanks again to all;the foam was for a C330f and a Canonete where it was fine but I can see how it might not be best with a sheet holder(I hope to try them one day).I believe the nearest craft/fabric store(only a bit over 40 mi.)has gum backed felt ,would this do?If not what glue would you use on the velvet? On another topic,what are your thoughts on useing an AAR620 ()if I can find one,for winter use;if I dont have to detatch the GG with gloves in subzero temps I cant drop it. 2mileshighandlovinit, John |
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Dan Fromm
Joined: 14 May 2001 Posts: 2144 Location: New Jersey
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Posted: Wed Aug 25, 2004 11:10 am Post subject: |
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Quote: |
On 2004-08-24 23:06, jbbatok wrote:
Thanks again to all;the foam was for a C330f and a Canonete where it was fine but I can see how it might not be best with a sheet holder(I hope to try them one day).I believe the nearest craft/fabric store(only a bit over 40 mi.)has gum backed felt ,would this do?If not what glue would you use on the velvet? On another topic,what are your thoughts on useing an AAR620 ()if I can find one,for winter use;if I dont have to detatch the GG with gloves in subzero temps I cant drop it. 2mileshighandlovinit, John
| John, in my experience the AAR620's film counter mechanism works poorly when cold.
The mechanism is very simple. At the far end of the holder, the film passes over a roller. The roller has a cam that whacks a push rod once per revolution. The pushrod in turn pushes a ratcheted wheel, and that's the counter. As long as the roller can turn freely -- graphite powder helps, don't use oil -- the cam/pushrod will make an audible click once a revolution, i.e., 4 times per 2x3 frame. But the ratchet, even when helped with graphite powder -- don't use oil -- tends to stick and not advance when cold. So you can use the holder, but have to keep track of how many frames you've shot. Or reset the counter manually after advancing the film.
With my AARs, I ignore the counter, just wind the film 4 clicks after taking a shot.
Cheers,
Dan |
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45PSS
Joined: 28 Sep 2001 Posts: 4081 Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.
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Posted: Fri Aug 27, 2004 3:26 am Post subject: |
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John,
Just check the closest hardware store or hardware section of the closest store of any kind for self adheasive felt like the sheets that you put on the bottom of a lamp. Use brown or black if you have a color choice.
The best camera covering/light seal glue is latex/neoprene based contact cement.
Charles
_________________
While a picture may be worth a thousand words, a quality photograph is worth a million.
[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2004-08-26 20:28 ] |
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jbbatok
Joined: 14 Aug 2004 Posts: 5 Location: pikes peak
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Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2004 6:02 am Post subject: |
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Thanks again to all.now I hope to actually snap a shutter with film this weekend.Best wishes and good light to you all,John |
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Henry
Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 1644 Location: Allentown, Pennsylvania
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Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2004 6:13 pm Post subject: |
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Apropos of your original question about play when the roll holder is locked down: if you ever have occasion to make double time exposures, as in the case of a room interior where you double-expose with the windows covered and uncovered (to balance the interior and exterior light levels), do NOT insert/remove the dark slide between exposures or you'll most certainly see a shift in the image on the negative. I learned this to my sorrow once on a project that I could not shoot over, thereby rendering unusable an otherwise beautiful image. |
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